The Evolution of the British Tie: A Historical Journey

By Emma Moore Originally published June 10, 2024 — Updated October 2025

Approx. 4 min read

Editor’s Note: This article was updated in October 2025 to reflect current trends in sustainable materials and modern British tie design, including the growing love for cotton, wool, and tweed in contemporary tailoring.

The British tie — that small strip of fabric capable of making or breaking an outfit — has a surprisingly grand history. From battlefield neckerchiefs to boardroom power moves, it’s travelled quite the sartorial journey.

As someone who’s spent years styling everything from nervous grooms to jazz band frontmen at Arsenic & Old Lace, I’ve seen firsthand just how deeply the humble tie is woven into British style. (Also: I’ve learned that every man who says he “knows how to tie a Windsor knot” usually doesn’t.)

17th Century: The Cravat’s Introduction

Our story begins in the 17th century, when Croatian mercenaries serving in France wore knotted neckerchiefs during the Thirty Years’ War. The French loved the look, the British promptly followed suit, and suddenly everyone wanted one.

These early cravats, often crafted from fine cotton or wool, were more about flair than function. Aristocrats wore them with lace or embroidery, showing off status and necks alike. Somewhere out there, a valet was quietly panicking because his lord wanted “extra ruffles.”

18th Century: The Rise of the Steinkirk Tie

By the early 1700s, the Steinkirk became the tie of choice — named after the Battle of Steenkerque. Gentlemen began tying their cravats loosely and tucking them into their waistcoats, achieving that perfectly casual “I just fought a war but still look fabulous” vibe.

Cotton, linen, and early tweeds entered the mix, adding practicality and personality. I often think of this as the beginning of “British effortlessness” — that magical ability to look both dressed and undressed at once.

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19th Century: The Ascot and the Bow Tie

Enter the Ascot, named after the Royal Ascot Racecourse, where the great and good paraded in their finest. Wide, formal ties made from lightweight wool and soft cotton became all the rage. You weren’t truly fashionable unless you looked slightly like you’d raided your grandfather’s scarf drawer.

Meanwhile, the bow tie made its debut — adored by academics, architects, and anyone who wanted to look intelligent while still having a drink before noon. By the late 1800s, the bow tie had found its modern form. (Confession: I still think a man in a well-tied bow looks ten IQ points smarter. Science pending.)

Early 20th Century: The Modern Necktie

Fast-forward to the 1920s, when Jesse Langsdorf, a New York tie maker, had a lightbulb moment: cut the fabric on the bias — diagonally — so the tie drapes better and stays in shape. Revolutionary.

British makers were quick to adapt, crafting modern ties from cotton, wool, and tweed — durable, textured, and endlessly British. The regimental tie, with its proud stripes and military roots, became an icon. Even today, it’s the easiest way to look like you’ve got your life together (even if you ironed your shirt with one hand while eating toast).

Mid to Late 20th Century: The Skinny Tie and the Power Tie

The 1950s brought us the skinny tie — sharp, rebellious, and perfect for the Mod movement. Cotton blends ruled, and it looked just as good on a jazz stage as it did in a smoky London bar. I once styled a band in matching skinny tweed ties for a wedding — they looked incredible until one fainted from heat. Commitment to style, though.

Then came the power tie of the 1980s: bold, wide, and unapologetically confident. Made from weighty wool and textured tweeds, these ties screamed success. If you owned one in red, you likely also had an enormous mobile phone and a questionable moustache.

21st Century: Tradition Meets Modernity

Today, the British tie balances heritage and sustainability. Modern fashion is rediscovering what British tailors always knew — that natural fibres like cotton, wool, and tweed aren’t just stylish; they’re better for the planet and last for years.

Designers such as Paul Smith and Burberry have embraced this shift, blending traditional craftsmanship with modern sensibility. And as GQ wisely points out, simplicity and substance always outlast trends.

At Arsenic & Old Lace, I love seeing customers pick ties that reflect their personalities — from tweed bow ties for vintage weddings to cotton neckties for everyday polish. One groom once asked if his tie could “match his dog’s bandana.” Reader, it did. And it was glorious.

A Thread That Tells a Story

The history of the British tie is, in many ways, the history of Britain itself: confident, evolving, and never afraid of reinvention. From the lace-trimmed cravat to the modern tweed tie, each generation has knotted a little of itself into the fabric.

And while trends come and go, a well-made tie — especially in cotton, wool, or tweed — remains timeless. It says you care, but not too much. It says you’re thoughtful, but not trying too hard. It says, quite simply, “I’ve got this.”

For those who share my love of British-made quality, explore our handcrafted collection at Arsenic & Old Lace — where tradition meets modern tailoring, and every tie has a story worth telling.

About the Author

Emma Moore is the founder and creative director of Arsenic & Old Lace, a British accessories brand specialising in handcrafted cotton, wool, and tweed ties. With over a decade in the fashion industry, Emma has styled everyone from wedding parties to jazz quartets, combining classic tailoring with modern charm. She firmly believes a good tie can save a bad outfit — and that every man should learn at least one knot properly.