My Expert Guide: The Pocket Square - A Small Detail with a Surprisingly Big History
- Emma Moore
- Jan 16
- 4 min read
By Emma, Arsenic and Old Lace
If there’s one accessory I’ll never stop championing, it’s the pocket square. Quietly confident, endlessly versatile, and steeped in history, it’s one of those details that doesn’t shout for attention—but always gets noticed.
I still remember the first time I truly noticed one. I was at a wedding years ago, surrounded by perfectly respectable suits, when one guest stood out—not because he was louder or more flamboyant, but because of a softly worn cotton pocket square, casually folded and clearly loved. It wasn’t pristine. It wasn’t trying too hard. It simply looked right. That was the moment I understood that style often lives in the smallest details.
At Arsenic and Old Lace, we see the pocket square as exactly that: the finishing touch. The moment an outfit moves from well dressed to considered.
A Brief History of the Pocket Square
The pocket square didn’t begin life as decoration. Its earliest ancestors date back more than 2,000 years to ancient Rome, where small cloths were carried for practical reasons—wiping faces and hands in the heat.
By the 17th century, those humble cloths had become something far more refined. During the reign of Louis XIV, handkerchiefs evolved into symbols of wealth and elegance. Lace-trimmed edges, fine embroidery, and delicate fabrics signalled status long before logos ever did.
The 19th century brought a quieter kind of sophistication. Influenced heavily by Beau Brummell, men’s style shifted toward clean tailoring and restraint. The pocket square became less about display and more about intention—chosen carefully, worn effortlessly.
If you enjoy the history as much as I do, the Victoria and Albert Museum has a wonderful overview of the handkerchief’s evolution here:https://www.vam.ac.uk/articles/a-brief-history-of-the-handkerchief
Why Pocket Squares Still Matter
In a world where dress codes are increasingly relaxed, the pocket square has endured because it offers something rare: personality without excess.
It Shows Consideration
A pocket square suggests thought. It says you’ve paid attention not just to what you’re wearing, but how you’re wearing it.
It Adds Character
Whether it’s crisp white linen or a softly patterned cotton, a pocket square brings individuality to tailoring in a way few other accessories can.
It’s Incredibly Versatile
One well-chosen pocket square can move easily between weddings, workwear, and weekend jackets. Neatly folded or casually puffed, it adapts to the occasion without effort.
Esquire has long been an advocate of this understated detail, and their guide remains a classic:https://www.esquire.com/style/mens-fashion/advice/a4747/pocket-squares-how-to/
Pocket Squares and Ties: A Gentle Relationship
One of the most common misconceptions I come across is that a pocket square should exactly match a tie. In reality, they work best when they relate rather than replicate.
Pick up a secondary colour, echo a texture, or introduce contrast. A pocket square should look chosen, not issued as part of a set.
Permanent Style explains this beautifully, and their advice is always worth reading:https://www.permanentstyle.com/2018/03/how-to-wear-a-pocket-square.html
Fabric, Craft, and Why Quality Matters
Not all pocket squares are created equal. Fabric makes a remarkable difference—not just to how a pocket square looks, but how it behaves.
Natural materials such as cotton and linen fold beautifully, sit comfortably in the breast pocket, and improve with age. Details like hand-rolled edges and thoughtfully scaled prints aren’t unnecessary flourishes; they’re signs of care and longevity.
If you’d like a deeper understanding of construction and fabric choice, Gentleman’s Gazette offers a thorough guide here:https://www.gentlemansgazette.com/pocket-squares-guide/
Why I Still Love the Pocket Square
For me, the pocket square represents everything I love about classic style: restraint, confidence, and individuality. It doesn’t need to be loud to be effective. It simply needs to be chosen well.
I’ve seen a pocket square rescue an otherwise forgettable outfit more times than I can count. And I’ve also seen it worn badly—over-starched, over-matched, overthought. The secret lies somewhere in the middle. Care, but not fuss.
Whether you wear tailoring every day or only on special occasions, a pocket square gives you a quiet way to express yourself—elegantly, personally, and entirely on your own terms.
And really, isn’t that what great style is all about?
— Emma
Pocket Square FAQs
What is a pocket square?
A pocket square is a small square of fabric worn in the breast pocket of a jacket or blazer. Unlike a handkerchief, it’s intended purely for style rather than practical use.
What is the purpose of a pocket square?
The purpose of a pocket square is to elevate an outfit. It adds interest, balance, and personality while showing attention to detail.
Should a pocket square match your tie?
No. A pocket square should complement a tie rather than match it exactly. Coordinating colours or textures creates a more natural, confident look.
Which fabric is best for a pocket square?
Cotton and linen are excellent for everyday wear as they fold neatly and hold their shape. Silk is ideal for more formal occasions and softer folds.
How do you fold a pocket square?
There’s no single correct fold. A flat fold suits formal settings, while a puff or relaxed fold works well for casual tailoring.
Can you wear a pocket square without a tie?
Yes. A pocket square works just as well with an open-collar shirt and is a simple way to add interest to a more relaxed jacket.
Are pocket squares still fashionable?
Absolutely. Pocket squares are a timeless accessory that continue to be valued for their versatility and understated elegance.
How many pocket squares should you own?
A small, thoughtful collection is enough—one white, a few subtle patterns, and a couple of seasonal colours will cover most occasions.
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